Lead climbing vs bouldering reddit You aren't being irresponsible to your climber (they know they weigh more than you) but not all gyms would allow it. 11a redpoint (outdoors). Comp climbing is a very artificially limited style of climbing, and very often the people who are good at comp climbing aren't much good on rock and viceversa. 12a redpoint (outdoors). This is where there is an obvious change in style and grade. This sub tends to have more people with a focus on bouldering, the average bouldering grade tends to be a bit high for the sport grade led (compared to crux of sport route). We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I know people who exclusively boulder for a season, and then when sport climbing season rolls around only need to spend a few sessions climbing ropes to be climbing at an equivalent grade. Gym V5-6 Feb 2021 (2 years): first 5. However, if you prefer longer, endurance-based climbs with rope protection, lead climbing is a great choice. That being said, if your goal is "general fitness" and you feel like you are out of shape in general, I wouldn't drop traditional resistance training and focus on bouldering--your tendons will be by far your weakest link bouldering, which will preclude you from really working your muscles as I’m a route climber. 8 range. Dec 10, 2024 · Learn the main differences between bouldering and lead climbing, such as the gear required, the physical challenges, and the social aspects. But I find bouldering more interesting to watch in comps. Gym V5-6, but rarely climbing indoors Jan 2021: first 5. lead climbing has taught me how to really shake out and has gotten my body more used to regaining endurance mid-route, which has been very valuable on long boulder problems (not to mention general endurance gains). - If you are 5. How much base cardio fitness you need for climbing depends on what climbing you want to do. My rock climbing teachers recommended me the sportiva kubo. The 5. 11 ranges. Liquid chalk is amazing. Climbing is more fun that lifting weight or going for a run for many people. Also, don't rest or take when you're tired - just go for the next move until you fall. So you are more likely to get injured while bouldering, but are marginally more likely to die while sport climbing (especially given the fact you have to rely on someone else to not fail at their job). 11d sport routes but I couldn't and that made me feel bad. Its mostly mental. Is top rope climbing just like belaying or is it different somehow? With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to the belayer, and the other side to the climber. I feel as if I’m wasting a lot time on the auto belays. Hi all, M32 10 years of climbing, 67kg circa 170% BW max hang on 20mm. I have climbed both places, currently a member at Vertical view. In some ways, they use different skills and require different training to excel at, but there are easy and hard climbs in either style. 10 in your gym), I’d just start bouldering. I can watch 20 people make multiple attempts on the same boulder, but I can’t watch 20 people climb the same route. In this blog, I will demonstrate the differences between these two types of climbing. I’m in the same boat. Here's the link if you're interested. If you're into long days on backcountry routes with big approaches, then being able to get to the start of the climbing without being completely trashed is advantageous. If you’re looking for a powerful, technique-driven climbing style, bouldering may be the best fit. They are a lot less messy. Lead climbing is much more different from bouldering than I assumed. As for toprope and/or lead climbing, I like to use liquid chalk for the harder grades, plus a chalk ball. Maybe outdoor 10s sent consistently on lead? I boulder outdoors like once a year so idk if I can comment on that. I’ve added my own stretches as my range of movement/flexibility is a weakness. Bouldering is about climbing shorter routes without ropes, using crash pads for safety. For bouldering I use a chalk ball or loose chalk. With bouldering you fall away from the wall, but when climbing with a rope it just pulls you back into the wall unless it’s overhanging terrain. I’m getting to a point where I don’t necessarily want to climb harder grades but longer and more committing technical climbs. They do have ways you can meet people to top rope/lead climb. Laura Rogora climbed some of the hardest sport routes ever climbed by a woman on rock, but her performance in comps is often lackluster, for example. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Climbers use the term 'climbing' as a catch all, but non-climbers are more likely to be familiar with "rock climbing" (which usually means top roping), and boulders will use rock climbing to mean climbing with a rope to differentiate it from bouldering, although to a newbie it seems like bouldering is also be a form of rock climbing. When I lead on the big wall I’m out of gas half way up on a 5. Helix and the Vapor V are my normal go-to for a session, not very aggressive and the Helix have laces which provides a more comfortable fit when I'm just climbing to climb. After 5. I often see people who can boulder really well fail at sport climbing and sport climbers get their asses handed to them on "comparable" bouldering routes. It’s tough because that could be so many skills. Long edit: It's a bit hard to explain. I've been climbing for a year and I think my level is low-intermediate. When I started climbing I got into sport climbing, but as I was progressing I got injured and looked to trad for easier stuff and adventuring. So while climbing isn’t the most efficient way of neither losing fat or gaining muscle, it is, to some, a more achievable way of staying fit/healthy. My GF and I are mock leading in an effort to take the lead test indoors and hopefully do… Best climbing advise I've ever been given, even if it seems super obvious. OK, so I had probably my worst time climbing last night. You will not be disappointed with either. When lead climbing, you have to take a hand off the wall to then reach and clip. When TR'ing, you have both hands all the time. up/down/ups on lead after they do their 1-2 hard Reddit post about Resting (sums up all my beginner thoughts on resting, good input there as well) Epic TV Climbing Daily Pump Control and Efficient Resting App Crimpd. It sounds like your gym is setting boulders and top rope appropriately. 8a+ RP, 7c OS, 7B+ boulder I've been climibing on lead for training my whole life and occasionally gym bouldering, aways had good endurance and good recover ability. You should exclusively lead until you're flirting with 11+/12-, at which point you should almost definitely start to incorporate bouldering into your schedule on a weekly basis. Lead climbing is clearly inferior to top roping. Hey everyone, been climbing for about 1. Muscle fatigue was, and still is, the biggest problem for me. Bouldering obviously doesn't help you improve on the parts of "technique" that makes you conserve energy, which is important in lead climbing. That said, I know people who can lead climb without issues but are afraid of even getting 1 meter off the ground when bouldering, whereas I have no issues jumping off at 4m onto a mat but have some We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Oct 12, 2020 · General Climbing vs. 12 outside you might want to consider bouldering more than lead climbing, as generally progressing to higher grades is essentially solving boulder problems on the route. Most ppl generally seem to find lead climbing more enjoyable than bouldering, so they do it more, and as a result get better at it. Fun and love = determination and success. Bouldering 7A/V6 outdoors made me assume I should be able to climb at least 7a/5. Sport climbing is all about pulling as little as absolutely necessary to do the move. -it’s a short period of trying super hard then stopping, like doing a max set at the gym, I enjoy this type of hard and fast exercise followed by a rest period. The obvious example is speed climbing, but between bouldering and sport climbing (lead and top) the gap has increased the last years due to the modern style of setting. I’m addition, wanting to get better at climbing, can motivate you to e. Asana has more bouldering available but no top rope, so if you want that you should hit up Vertical View. Some gyms rate TR and lead climbs differently, this is a mistake. . 9 months ago I could do a one arm pull-up and hanging on a 25 mm edge was difficult despite exclusively trying to focus on easy crimp climbs for six months while being miserable, and Reddit What was Earth Treks is now just Movement (all they did was change the name). I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. Whichever one you end up throwing for holds with low core tension and poor control will be injurious. Bouldering and climbing each pose some injury risks, but the types tend to differ. - I can just go alone 2. I almost never boulder. 12 in the next season or two. 5-5. Oct 20, 2024 · In this article, we'll explore both styles, their differences, and help you decide which one aligns with your goals and fitness level. Looking back, the main thing I would've done differently is letting go of my own expectations. Feb 26, 2025 · Both bouldering and lead climbing offer unique challenges and benefits. With bouldering, any falls typically happen from lower heights. so no, it's not wrong or even uncommon to feel more drawn to a certain discipline. If I had a nickel for every climber at my gym taking 30 mins to lead a 5. Bouldering Grades FAQ: Is Climbing a 5. So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). Nov 4, 2024 · Injury Risks in Bouldering vs Climbing. I can only afford membership to 1 gym and was wondering if bouldering or sport climbing would be better to condition my body to get used to climbing again. Bouldering is an intense, shorter-form style of climbing that involves scaling routes (called "problems") on lower walls, typically around 10 to 15 feet high. e. Bouldering and lead climbing are two exciting ways to climb rocks. 8 (5. " by dassieking Different climbing disciples are sprenading apart from each other more and more (not a bad thing). 11 but only boulder V2-V3. Outdoor climbing grades (like gym grades) vary, but folks tend to ann Personally I enjoy bouldering more because 1. There is definitely some good in sport climbing in the gym if you need to work on clipping and lead head but if you have a solid base in that then bouldering, power endurance and then some base aerobic training should be more than enough. All Scarpa since La Sportiva and other brands don't quite fit my heel as well. Climbing slower, overgripping, second guessing clipping positions etc. Sloper and pinches might be. Take falls over and over again. I really like climbing cracks and hope to get 5. Maybe it could be included as a format, but I think promoting climbing to the masses as what it mostly is (lead, bouldering and speed) instead of climbing without a rope over water (which undoubtedly it is also but to a much much more niche area) would be better and promote the sport as something for athletes and sportsmen. Pure route grade wise, Maybe v5-6 for indoor bouldering. Adds more climbing specific strength, and adds a bit more technique. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. Jul 2020: Got into sport climbing, stopped bouldering. There was this really iconic 12c/7b+ which I wanted to do. General advice first: go for shoes that work for your foot shape. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. Mar 19, 2023 · Bouldering and lead climbing may seem similar but there are distinct differences between the two styles that make them unique. Usually with 4's and 5's you can get away with not having strong strength if your technique is flawless (which most casual climbers also don't have), but to get past 6's (onto 7's) you need strong climbing strength A bit of outdoor bouldering and outdoor sport climbing when I'm on holiday. I have 3 pairs in rotation. For over a year, the Boulder and Lead competitions score as follows: There are 2 gyms in my area, 1 specializing in sport climbing/ top-roping with auto-belay, and another specializing in bouldering. 10 Good? There isn’t a cut off grade that if you can climb it, you’re considered a good climber. Looking at speed climbing, the men's records are significantly better than the women's, so maybe men vs women won't be competitive in that discipline, but what about lead and bouldering? If we take the two Olympic champions from Tokyo 2020, Alberto Ginés López and Janja Garnbret, and make them compete against each other in an IFSC lead Just wanted to chime in that no climbing will ever be “risk free”! It’s all about the kind of risk that one is assuming: bouldering has a high risk of decking, but can generally be low consequence if proper measures are taken; top roping has a low risk of decking, but pretty high consequence if things go wrong. but to be the best boulderer possible, the other In the gym where I climb they recommend no more than a 30% weight difference for lead climbing and prohibit anything over a 50% weight difference. I do random finger exercises and a good finger warm up before a climbing session but this is definitely not a weakness holding me back at the moment. Climbing is extremely subjective, and what one person might think of as good is another person’s warm-up climb. Traditionally, V0 is equivalent to 5. For the lower grades I only use a chalk ball. 12 +/13-, indoor lead climbing has almost no place in your training. Barely any improvements in 2 years of climbing : bouldering First time posting on Reddit and not sure if this is best as a post here, but what happens in the event of a complete tie in either IFSC World Cup bouldering or lead comps? Wasn’t easy to find in the rules doc 😅 For simplicity let’s say two athletes top all quali, semis and finals routes in a lead comp. She is a climbing physio and I have a range of push/pull/squat/hinge to work on. Consistent 11s on lead for indoor rope climbing. 75 years—my climbing journey has been defined by a large gap between body/pulling strength and finger strength. 11d redpoint (outdoors). Stop top roping and always lead (and lead at least once a week or so) and it will improve pretty quickly. Anyway, bouldering is fun, is generally scarier than sport climbing and is a really good way to get strong (especially when it's too cold to climb routes). I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. Key things to consider: toe length, greek vs roman vs egyptian foot, arch height, width. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. 10, but this is a very old convention which almost no one follows nowadays, gym V0 are typically somewhere in the 5. All that wasted time dragging around ropes and climbing routes below your potential. Grades should be created because of the difficulty of the climbing moves and the size/direction/type We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Also it's arguably the most dangerous form of climbing resulting in a lot of sprained ankles and broken bones. If you are relatively new to leading, then yes. the grades don't change, but the difficulty does. do strength training. They are different events, however climbing is young in its Olympic journey and there is a lot of crossover in terms of competitors. I’m pretty sure the englewood location is the only place with an auto-belay for the speed climbing walls but it’s only for the speed climbing walls. 3. I myself started out only bouldering up to V11/8A before I got more interested in sport climbing. I'm an 8 foot and I bought a 7. 10a lead outdoors Nov 2020: first 5. My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). Hey mate don't be hard on yourself, actually it is really common for former boulderers who switch to sport climbing that they're underperforming a lot. I have Instinct Vs, Vapor V, and Helix. Gym V5-6. in Paris 2024, following comments that Speed on one end, and Boulder/Lead require very different skills, the events are split accordingly. I prefer chalk balls though. Pay arno to come to your gym and make you take lead falls Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing admittedly i skimmed a while ago so summary might not be great was long & repetitive book. 9 and when I boulder I can barely send v3s. Sport climbing will always be easier to quickly project when you have perma draws or a stick clip. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. The gist i IIRC: use CBT to alter your mindset for success. 11d lead climbing. I've been wearing Solutions for 7 years. I think it comes down to one's style of climbing and the types/variety of climbs available in both sports in your area. Also, if you are new to climbing Vertical View has classes. While still uncomfortable, such injuries usually heal quickly. This is probably the wrong audience to ask this question--a climbing sub is going to "like" climbing. This often results in minor issues like bruises or twisted ankles from landing on the crash pads. 13+ climbers I know mostly boulder and when they do lead they focus a lot on endurance training, i. Therefore, someone doing badly at Lead could still advance (or place high) if they did really well at Speed. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. I’ve seen a ton of ppl on MountainProject who climb 5. - cheaper, the rope + grigri + harness aren’t super expensive but it’s an initial cost for sure. If it's walking from the bus stop to the gym, not so much. I have red pointed up to 11b but have tried into the 12's while sport climbing. I’ve been climbing consistently 3 days a week sometimes 4 for a solid 6-7 months now and I climb auto belays a lot in the 5. g. Asana has an Adult Climbing league, which is cool. V3-4 on Moon/Tension/Kilter. So it's a complex question. Also like their technique. But I also might take year to learn ice climbing and do alpine enduro climbing. So, at least where I am, they don't really compare. I was bouldering at my best 2 months ago (v6/7 bouldering after about 6 months of climbing 4 times a week) but I was still struggling to even send a 5. They are similar enough where Janja Garnbret for example would be favourite to win both bouldering and lead even if they were separate. I have questions about the difference between top rope climbing and lead climbing. Bouldering will make you a better sport climber, although how much isn't for certain. I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). 4. Interesting Sayings: "Bouldering is all about pulling as hard as possible. Started around 5. It's been a good experience, they are really comfortable and versatile for both climbing and short rock routes. Anecdotal but the strongest sport climbers I know just boulder in the gym then work some endurance in before the outdoor season.
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