Full crimp vs half crimp vs open hand Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. The correlations with route grades were similar. If your open hand strength is that weak, open hand grips would be beneficial to train. hoopersbeta. It said that open hand would help half crimp but not full crimp. Typically this means using a hangboard 1-2x/week with a slow and steady progression. Additionally, holds at gyms have evolved and we now encounter a broader range of shapes and sizes, most of which don’t really work with a full-crimp. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. However if you are training open half only I agree with Sean that you need to also need to train full crimp as edge sizes begin getting smaller. com/In this video, we are going Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. Right now I'm training my half crimp and full crimp by low intensity hangboarding. 3. The entire hand’s muscle machinery is employed to grab on to a hold. This grip offers good power while reducing the strain on your fingers. I forget which book I read but it claimed that half crimp would help train both the open hand and full crimp. In full crimp, the length of your fingers on the hold forms a full bend in relation to the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold. Half Crimp Open Grip GRUNDKURS BOULDERN Full Crimp Vs Half Crimp In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. Jan 29, 2019 · I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. Full Crimp: What’s the Difference? The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. Half crimp grip and open hand grip were allowed without the use of the climber's thumb and chosen by personal preference. half crimp grip position open hand grip position ☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Mar 16, 2005 · 4. We had exactly this discussion with some rad boulderers and trainers last week. half-crimp: Do climbers assume World Championships in Bern and (b) the set-up of the full-size campus board in the laboratory in Zurich. I think OP is probably better off focusing solely on half crimp, since open is coming along fine without any isolation training. Jede dieser Griffvarianten fühlt sich anders an und im Eifer des Gefechtes benutzen Boulderer:innen die Begriffe oftmals etwas salopp. The hand placement is the same as a full crimp. While many have become injured while full-crimping, overuse and not listening to their body are likely the causes. Crimps are needed where the edge is small and you can only place fingertips on it. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Sep 27, 2024 · The issue with full crimping is that, unlike a half-crimp, the ‘fail-safe’ in your body won’t react. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. In an open hand crimp, the fingers will be laying flat and ergonomically. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Dec 5, 2018 · 但与 Full Crimp 和 Half Crimp 相比，Open Hand 虽然抓握力最弱，但却是最省力，同时，也是对关节压力最小的抓点方法。 非常推荐新手练习搭点，一来入门的时候不会碰到太小的 Crimp 点，二来可以慢慢建立起手指力量，再者养成好的抓点习惯，避免受伤。 It really depends how long your pinky fingers are. Building the robustness of the structures in our hand that the full crimp stresses takes patience, consistency, and time. Open hand grip is shown to reduce A2 pulley stress by 36 times in com Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. About Press Press Open hand (fingers are greater than 90 degrees from the palm) Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. Aug 27, 2023 · Training exercises for open-hand and crimp grips. Dec 8, 2019 · In this video, we discuss the proper crimping technique for climbing injury prevention. I reserve full crimps for anything that i simply CANNOT open crimp. Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. However, this is not good for your tendons and pulleys. But for others with long pinkies, the degree to which they can open their hand, with and without pinky, is Nov 7, 2010 · the semi-open hand or half crimp position is very strong and covers a lot of bases, check out some video of someone on a campus board to see what i mean. For all skill levels and both sexes, slightly higher forces in open hand than in half-crimp position werefound. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. Further, I'd recommend OP reviews the protocol. Damit wir im Folgenden aber Klarheit gegenüber den Techniken schaffen, findest du hier die offizielle Definition. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees, the pinky may be slightly straighter and usually contours the hold, and the thumb either rests next to the index finger or pinches the side of the hold, if possible. chris r. I recently did a cycle of only half crimp training, both 10mm and 25mm. This is a video from the Rock Rehab Pyramids to help you reduce the change of a rotator cuff strain while climbing. Dynamic moves to and from small edges, pu Feb 9, 2020 · First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. May 10, 2022 · Many climbers have been injured from over-using the full-crimp and were forced to re-train themselves to rely more on the half-crimp and open grips. Full crimp grip and 3 finger drag were not permitted. Its two different techniques. I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. Besides that, I would think a slow ramping up of your crimp related grips will eventually show progress. Open Hand Jan 29, 2019 · I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. This is screaming injury ^ stick with open drag, half crimp and (thumb on) full crimp. For beginner climbers the Open-Hand grip may feel more comfortable, as it places less load on the pulleys and relies upon the finger’s natural structure. The main difference is that your thumb is not wrapped over your index finger but instead, remains extended. Would it be logical to presume that to half crimp and actually hang off of our fingers, we should use an edge that is at least 20mm’s deep? For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www. Jan 4, 2024 · Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. To develop grip strength and endurance, climbers can incorporate specific training exercises tailored to both open-hand and crimp grips. 37 votes, 20 comments. I'm wondering if training half crimp and full crimp has worked for anyone? Or maybe open hand just fits the physiology of my hand better. Sep 11, 2023 · Open Hand vs. I’ve never seen this… Usually I imagine people either open hand dragging it or full crimping it. In these you will have the first (DIP) joint straight (half-crimp) or overextended (bent backwards; full crimp), allowing you to put more pressure on the fingertips as needed, while the middle joint (PIP) is bent. I’m not convinced there is a big benefit to training true half crimp vs open half. com/finger-tool🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www. Always try an open crimp first and focus on your foot Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. Translates best. Dec 14, 2016 · The lever arm is more favorable for both open hand, and semi open than for half or full crimp, so one should expect an underlying advantage for the more open grips. com Jan 31, 2022 · Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. Your thumb applies pressure on the top of the hold. 1. May 1, 2024 · Full-Crimp: Many climbers see full-crimping as a tool for injury. I noticed… When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo Open vs full crimp is not right vs wrong. from publication: Clinical management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber | This case Mar 6, 2025 · Thus, we cannot conclude that higher skilled climbers assess their strength capacities more accurately. Train strictly half crimp. U never climb like number 3. Avoiding certain grips might actually lead to increased vulnerability. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. Full Crimp. Meaning, you can open your hand a lot more by dropping the pinky. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Closed Crimp vs. Half crimp training is important if you want to learn how to use the grip properly since it can be harder to learn than full crimp. . Make five 0. Unlike full crimp, you can use this gripping technique regularly. Oct 29, 2020 · For climbing, this means building up our strength and resilience to the full crimp position in a methodical and controlled manner. Mar 27, 2019 · Half Crimp. We practice half crimp to let our thumbs work independently on pinches, slopers and thumb catches AND as a less injury than full crimping all the time. Typically training half crimp will keep this spread tight. In my right dominant hand on tiny… I'm guessing yes because not having to full crimp everything could potentially mean less pumping out on sport routes (debatable bc full crimp actually feels more passive than half to me, but maybe there's some transfer to open hand), less stress on the finger joints (and faster recovery = more sessions), and more strength on holds where you can By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. If you find yourself using this grip on most holds, focus on using a half or open crimp to build up strength. com/ Nov 9, 2022 · On the image it looks like a 15-20mm edge, which seems insane to try to half-crimp. 2. A full crimp is when your fingers on the crimp hold are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads and your thumb clasps on top of the hold. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Hang on your fingerboard and identify your weakest positions - Normally this should be 3-finger open crimp. If you climb and open crimp things other people full crimp, you do the same moves with less risk of injury. This is called full crimping! It exponentially increases the force on your fingers, meaning you can pull a lot harder. Oct 15, 2021 · Half Crimp vs. Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. I also only do max hangs (Crimpd 90%). OP just started hanging, and open crimp (whatever OP means, still, less than half crimp, probably 4 fingers open. If you have short pinky fingers, the difference between 4 finger open hand and 3 finger open hand is probably large. Open hand vs. See full list on gripped. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. Half crimp is relatively weak. Once you feel you are getting stronger, choose smaller holds and repeat it again 3-4 times. This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Rest 30 seconds and make three intervals. May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over Apr 13, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. Open-hand grip training may include hanging from a bar or campus board using an open-hand position for extended periods of time. Sep 22, 2022 · From a biomechanics perspective, half crimp will be weaker than full crimp or drag because full crimp includes direct force from the thumb and open includes passive tension/friction over the edge. This commonly leads to strain and damage. The half crimp is a more sustainable grip. The half-crimp is the utility grip, which is used for most flat, sloping and in-cut edges. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. The openness of a crimp grip refers to where our thumb is while crimping, and the angle our fingers and knuckles make while we crimp. When u are going on a trip to magic with a lot small crimps, implement this into your routine. May 30, 2007 · Another consideration is that the half-crimp is a more active grip, meaning that it relies more on strength (to resist leverage) and less on friction, so in an overall sense it will get you 'stronger' than the open-hand grip. My open hand and full crimp both improved (but not as much as my half crimp did). I also only started doing any hanging/off wall work, as an only-boulderer, after climbing at around V10 outside and with half crimp as an actual weakness compared to open and closed/full crimp. Full crimping should be done sparingly, if at all. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. ish) is plenty strong. The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. Half and full crimp with the red indicating the major stress regions of each type of crimp. However he did say that he trains full crimp which would train the things the true half crimp position trains. The main difference between half crimp and full crimp is the placement and use of your thumb. I think experienced folk would agree you want your spread to be kind of close between open 4 open 3 and half crimp. To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. The half crimp is a versatile and less strenuous variation of the full crimp, making it an important grip for climbers to May 15, 2018 · In this video we show the three different ways you can using crimping to exert more pressure on a hold. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. In this grip, the fingers are in an open position with a large joint angle (resembling an upside down “j”), enabling the palm to come close to the wall. Absolutely-- I only train half crimp because I am working on actively pulling. 5 seconds hangs - This should be quite easy. Same with full crimp, deadhang some full crimps for max hangs, if you can't do it with bodyweight, take some weight off. Going to font, do the same with open handed or dragged hangboarding and some wristwrench work. Hence, we confirm that for deeper hold depths, using an open hand position has no force disadvantage when compared to the half-crimp. The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are Open-Hand. Half Crimp vs. lbmxfw haflh hoae mhz eyzplx mddm qrcab dddvb euy wunx