Best anchor climbing gear reddit. And I didn't know a lot.
Best anchor climbing gear reddit. (Huge EDIT) don't TR my Mussys.
Best anchor climbing gear reddit Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters Mainly looking for recommendations on a good climbing rope & reliable brands I can trust; petzl, mammut, etc. Given the fact that the trees are solid and not just spindly bushes or already on the verge of dropping over, a sling around one stem and a locking carabiner should be all you need, make sure your rope does not drag over sharp edges. PS follow up - with experience, none of the standard anchor configurations will take a long time to rig, so I wouldn't personally argue for speed as the reason to Mar 13, 2019 · The climbing personal anchor category has become a lot more crowded since 2019, when we first published this post and proclaimed the Petzl Connect Adjust the undisputed best PAS for rock climbers. If you’re building gear anchors right above a climb, 21-25 feet of cord will be totally sufficient. Sometimes that means skipping opposite and opposed to use those biners in other places, or to conserve gear. Big ass tree. You then untie from the rope, remove your toprope gear from the anchor, feed the rope through the anchor rappel points (must be rap hangers, rap rings,beefy rounded chains or other rap ready anchor, for smooth rope pulling later) make sure both ends of the rope are on the ground, then attach yourself to the rope with your rappel device, double I have always wondered why certain pieces of climbing gear are considered too strong to fail, and consequently don't require redundancy. I know professional roofers walk around tall roofs all the time without safety gear, but I'm a little less bold. The quick adjust system let's you navigate around your anchor quickly and easily, and allows you to easily adjust to the optimal belay position to distribute weight on your harness. It provides easy clipping at the top and I usually choose this for when all climbers will be leading the climb. reccomend me anything though, ascenders/descenders, flip line with a steel core, gaffs, appropriate shoes, harness, ppe, your favorite tools/gear, your favorite setups, any advice, your favorite book on climbing techniques or knots 10 votes, 12 comments. This is where I'm having trouble picturing what you Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. for a good pair of starter shoes I would recommend the LA sportiva tarantulace (90 bucks), they fit comfortably and break in easy they have laces which I liked because if felt more secure… beefy toe pads and good heal pad all around solid shoe Climbing anchors regularly take way more load than a canyoneering anchor could ever hope to survive, so I understand the trepidation. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) 95% of the time there are ways to not leave anything. However, creating an attachment point for a treehouse is a different type of load (potentially?) than an attachment point for climbing. I don't develop, but i do quite a bit of climbing at various crags. The anchors I have seen people built with quickdraws were built with draws with short dogbones (ie what they had). Before Climbing Anchors was released I had picked up used copies of older two part series (1990's climbing anchors + more climbing anchors), as I was getting more serious about climbing and trying to get a better handle on knowing what I didn't know. Get an entire set and double up on the larger sizes. ) Nuts. Best Budget PAS: Metolious PAS-22 Best Overall PAS: Edelrid Switch Adjust Best Trad Climbing PAS: A clove hitch, and a sling off the rack I got the cnect adjust when I first started climbing and honestly it felt kinda dumb, but setting up anchors on multipitch trad climbs has changed my perspective on it. A PAS can be convenient, but slings do fine. This sub is for tool enthusiasts worldwide to talk about tools, professionals and hobbyists alike. Easy TR access, easy gear, easy climbing. The gear you need depends on where you are top roping. (Huge EDIT) don't TR my Mussys. Did a little more digging with some better targeted google searched and found out this happens a lot with scammers that will pretend to do gear giveaways and then make people pay for "shipping. At a Glance. If not, you walk off the top, or sometimes walk over and rappel a more popular line on the same cliff. Show off your latest creations or get advice on a problem. Thinking of doing some kind of peg board with hangers in there but I wasn't sure of the best way to go about this. In contrast, anchors made with slings and cordettes seem to dangle further from the bolts and have more downward force. Apr 29, 2024 · Still, climbing hardware continues to evolve, from refinements on classic gear like belay devices, to more-ergonomic iterations of staples like quickdraws, to more compact and lighter designs. I am considering the following setup, for climbing single pitch crags of 8-15 meters on top rope (either tree anchors or bolted anchors): 60 meter static (aka semi-dynamic) rope, double figure-8 to the anchor Petxl micro traxion with prusikk backup. Jan 13, 2022 · 1) To construct a girth-hitch masterpoint, clip or thread cord or a sling through each anchor component and pull down on the rigging material to tension it, as you would when rigging a cordelette anchor. Hey lots of the comments are harsh. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. Essentially when the force on the rope is greater than can be held by the belay device the rope starts to slip through creating heat until enough energy is absorbed that the device can hold steady again. It’s a good enough anchor. A lot of good answers here and I don't want to be redundant but I would also recommend building trad anchors with a variety of materials like: just the rope, a 120 sling, two or three 60 slings, one 60 sling, vertical stacked anchors, anchors with a piece really far away, tree anchors, slung blocks with the rope, etc. That anchor is fine. It was me and one buddy with an AMGA guide for 1/2 a day up at North Table in Golden, CO. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 23 comments Oh Mussys. The outdoor and camping stores on the corner of Kent and Druitt Sts in the city would also stock that kind of stuff. Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. Mt Tam - haven’t climbed here but I’ve walked by. The only time it doesn’t work is if there isn’t enough space to feed a bight of rope through the hardware. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. The legs of a sling clipped to anchor points above, with the masterpoint locking carabiner. For carabiners and rope I know most climbing stores in Sydney get theirs from Climbing Anchors in Coffs Harbor. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the I'll briefly try to explain but the info comes from Craig Connally's The Mountaineer's Handbook and is repeated in Long/Gaines' Climbing Anchors. Here is a list of essentials I would recommend. 3M subscribers in the woodworking community. You then untie from the rope, remove your toprope gear from the anchor, feed the rope through the anchor rappel points (must be rap hangers, rap rings,beefy rounded chains or other rap ready anchor, for smooth rope pulling later) make sure both ends of the rope are on the ground, then attach yourself to the rope with your rappel device, double If you’re building gear anchors right above a climb, 21-25 feet of cord will be totally sufficient. This subreddit is temporarily private as part of a joint protest to Reddit's recent API changes, which breaks third-party apps and moderation tools, effectively forcing users to use the official Reddit app. 2. It could be better. We welcome posts about "new tool day", estate sale/car boot sale finds, "what is for sport climbs the top draws are usually cleaned by anchoring in to the bolts independently of the draws, untying, threading the rope through the rappel rings, and then retying and lowering or setting up for a rappel and rap off. All of climbing is Consider a situation when you want to set up a top rope but the best solid tree (or whatever bomber natural anchor) is like 10 meters from the edge, and you would like your master point to be close to the edge. I've come across a fair amount of anchors that need to be replaced. Ahh the classic two quickdraw anchor. Mock leading placing gear followed by the instructor going up and scoring pieces. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. A subreddit dedicated to the ancient art of blacksmithing. ) A static rope. Understand why you are doing what you are doing and identify potential problems. Nov 18, 2016 · From placing/removing gear and proper belay techniques, to how to make an anchor and manage a stuck rope, Intro to Trad Climbing takes the guesswork out of exploring traditionally protected climbs. Anchor freely in space. And I didn't know a lot. Sounds more like a janky rap setup, maybe someone replaced worn out rap rings or quick links with that stuff because it was all they had on them at the time. Woodworking is your worldwide home for discussion of all things woodworking, carpentry, fine… I thought this was about rock climbing and bouldering. (Common ones include the ATC and Figure 8) Locking, climbing-rated carabiners (at least 3: one for belay device, one for personal anchor system, one for prussik) Personal Anchor System (often called PAS: for connecting yourself to the anchors while rigging the rappel) Usually there are no bolted anchors where I climb. Many companies have knocked off Petzl’s design, and more will likely do so in the future. it has nice padding and easy slider adjust. Learn on the ground, and practice. The "extra slings, carabiners, etc. Add carabiners under the existing ones, connect however you want, done. I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. If you’re building way back from the edge of the cliff and extending your anchor out you may want to leave it at the full 30m. A rope is going to reduce pretty much any fall to 5-7 kN. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Specifically, I have found it saves me time and effort on routes where I know the anchors are compatible - meaning mostly bolted anchor setups or easily protected anchors that I know, from experience or reliable beta, do not require extensive additions or We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Build this anchor among others giving yourself different possible scenarios. I think it was worth it. A knotted sling will still hold 15+ kN. Most of the time it’s pretty simple to rebuild the anchor on the same gear w the second’s end of the rope underneath once they arrive. From Bad to Good Common Anchor Mistakes Corrected Illustration: Supercorn. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. Overhang. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. After that, you can better evaluate a good mentor and a good mentor will be more likely to take you in. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. For harness I used the black diamond momentum… got it at REI for 64 bucks. Agreed. Left: No protection against an upward pull. com I'll briefly try to explain but the info comes from Craig Connally's The Mountaineer's Handbook and is repeated in Long/Gaines' Climbing Anchors. That means either bolted anchors, a tree that has a permanent cable or sling around it, or it’s a multi pitch with a walk off so the second will take the anchor gear every pitch and then hike back to the car. That being said, I have found a lot of older Mussy-style hooks have keeper gates that are stuck open, which sucks. Below, you’ll find the best climbing hardware available in 2024. The home of Climbing on reddit. Anyone know of a good online source for these items? SS quicklinks, weld rings, cold-shut hooks, etc. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. On the other hand, I know that metal bolts are one of the best ways to anchor into a tree since the tree will grow around the bolt--same idea as a TAB (Treehouse Attachment Bolt) or Garnier limb. Get someone to help critique your anchors to learn from. While it is the least secure, it likely won’t allow the rope to come out especially if you do not climb above the anchor when cleaning but still does not have the added See full list on outdoorgearlab. Mar 13, 2019 · However, things are less clear-cut then they were, and the best PAS for you will depend on a number of factors, including price and climbing goals. Comes in handing for tying a master point, extending anchors, tying anchors to natural pro, and long rappels(if you advance to mountaineering). The belay loop is the best example. Bailing at the top is just rapping. Don't over-engineer it, on toprope you won't put a lot of stress on an anchor as you'll just be dangling or falling 1-2 m into a lot of rope. Luckily for your wallet, most multipitch routes are equipped with enough bolt or tree anchors so you can descend without leaving any gear behind. Nov 24, 2020 · The quick draw anchor is the least secure of all the anchors. But as sketchy as a choke stone or cairn might seem, you can usually proof load with 1. Wouldn't using anything more than a single piece of webbing and a single carabiner violate the rules of KISS? You use the gear you have to make the best anchor you can. 5. We came into it with a strong sport climbing background, understanding of pro, and general dos/don'ts. I know that there are some newer harnesses that include redundant belay loops, but it is still generally considered to strong to fail. The older style of belaying off the harness has the leader clipping a piece of the anchor to protect against a factor 2 fall, which could be near the maximum impact force of the rope (8-9kN), means that the clipped piece of the anchor is acting as a 2:1 pulley and can actually feel more force (1 & 2/3 maximum impact force due to frictional Climbing Helmet Climbing Harness Rappel/Belay device. " I decided to put in a fake address, name, and email and lo and behold they were asking almost $25 for shipping. It is a good piece of gear and will save you time if you know its limitations. Mussy Mussy Mussys. Half set of nuts (like size 5-10, add more if you can afford), maybe 1 or 2 hexes if you aren't springing for a cam or 2, a couple 30-40 foot pieces of 8mm accessory, and 2 lockers is all you need. But generally I think rope anchors are better used when you are swinging leads between equal partners, yes. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. I believe you need trad gear to build anchors here Mt Diablo - Upper level of Boy Scout rocks - For these some of these routes you need to set up a natural anchor using trees, rappel to the bolts, then setup an anchor on the bolts, transition your rappel to that, then rappel down. Feb 5, 2024 · That's pretty much the only anchor i'll ever use if I have enough rope, a decent stance, and reasonably spaced gear or bolts, which honestly is the vast majority of the time. Anchor building in trad is never a fixed thing where you can just follow a single rule and always have a perfect anchor, but more about applying a set of principles as mentioned above (angles, redundancy, equalization, non extension) to construct the best anchor available to you with the gear and features available. I'm up on my roof cleaning gutters three or four times a year (neighbor has elms), and I'd like to be safer. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. I have plenty of rock climbing gear. Editor’s Choice: Metolius Roll Up Stick Clip Kit ($225) The best personal anchor will always be the climbing rope. Simple and effective, this anchor should be a staple in every climbers toolbox. Sep 10, 2021 · This anchor looks like it’s right out of a sci-fi movie! There’s probably a simpler and more efficient way to build an anchor with two bolts! Three climbing anchors you should know. These anchors looked like there was as much side ways force as downward force on the bolts. . I adjust the climbing rope until my weight is on it, and my backup personal anchor (a sling) is slack but connected. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. And yes we are scared of falling. " includes gear to build an anchor and gear to attach oneself to a (bolted) anchor to set up a rappel if necessary. To throw out a personal opinion, I like using the rope but so far I also like having a redundant personal anchor. 1. I'd like to start carrying hardware with me in my gear bag so that I'm always ready to replace stuff if needed. The Two Quickdraw Anchor. Look up SERENE and ERNEST anchors as a starting point. Takes only a few seconds. Best way to build gear practice board for building/cleaning anchors? So I want a way to practice building and cleaning anchors and whatnot in my garage. Since OP has already been toproping for years, I made an assumption that he or she already has appropriate materials for an anchor and didn't mention This is the best way to clean sport anchors since you never come off belay. For your personal anchor, a factor 2 fall (you're standing above where you're clipped as far as your PAS can reach then fall) can go up to 17 kN, meaning serious risk of breaking your personal anchor. It's not really bail gear if it was at the anchor, you only bail part way up the route. Don't listen to the zealots - and there are many hereabouts. if it is, you did something else very wrong. Learn More. Ilya. I’ve used 100ft ropes for tree anchors do this in a specific toproping area I used to frequent. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. 5x bodyweight or more by bouncing on the rope before starting the rappel. aninwxgnxaqpqeiywylokawhzqxbzvdxutwtsxyqsbfhgggpy